Sunday 7 January 2018

Captivating Tourism in Zanzibar




A Visual Story About the Paradox of Contemporary Freedom
Najat el Hani, Prison Island – Zanzibar, January 2016

Zanzibar is a compilation of multiple smaller islands such as Prison Island. The Island group knows an extensive history of occupation and slave trade by Arabs, Indians and Europeans. Prison Island, also known as the Changuu Island, before the British first minister of Zanzibar: Lloyd Mathews, built its prison in 1893. Former slave traders used the renamed Prison Island as a quarantine area where [troublesome] slaves were held and later on shipped to purchasers or auctioned at slave markets. Today these historical pages have been reconstructed to a commodified area as a means of creating livelihoods. This series is about the sights on Prison Island and ways through which historical happenings are commodified to survive today.

Entering Prison Island 
In order to reach Prison Island, one must take a small boat from Zanzibar’s capital: Stone town. After the five kilometres fare a long wooden deck hanging over the corral blue water welcomes you to Prison Island. All together it offers a romanticized sight. When reaching Prison Island there is a mixture of tourists, locals and people working on the sight. The latter are mostly not keen on having pictures taken of them. 


[1/8] Welcoming Tourists
When entering, there are some touristic
routes to be taken. These will lead you to
the Islands main sightseeing areas.
Striking is the restaurant, named
after British Minister Lloyd Mathews
that played an influential role in the
horrific Zanzibar slave trade market.
The former prisons where many have
passed away due to malnutrition, torture
and sickness have been rebuilt into
touristic cottages, library and a boutique
to entertain its tourists. In addition
to the mentioned, visitors are able to
snorkel around the Island’s beautiful
coral reefs. 





[2/8]  Paradoxical Beauty 
Some of the squares on prison Island are surrounded by the mentioned cottages, prison library and toilets. In the midst of all this beauty the area is surrounded by loaded historical happenings. The toilet used to be an area where ‘rebellious slaves’ were kept. Walking through the space one must be cautious on where to rest a foot due to the slave shackles that are still installed on the floors and walls. In some of the rooms, messages of fingernail carvings on the walls are still visible to see. 









[3/8] Open Doors
According to one on of the locals the initial doors that were fabricated to lock in the slaves are still used on Prison Island. Now however, the chains on the doors are open and free for everyone to enter and exit. Many pass through them every day without realizing the value of these open doors.






 [4/8] Prison Library
One of the sights on the mentioned
squares is the old prison library and
surrounding chambers that used to
be the actual prison. This building is
now owned by a hotel. Former ‘stock
chambers’ where slaves were held
are currently used as hotel rooms.
The library is only accessible for
cottage residents. The shared rich
history of happenings within these
rooms are now rebuilt and
commodified for touristic purposes.
Hence, only accessible for the
selected few wealthy enough to
reside on the Island.

   [5/8] The Tortoise Sanctuary

                                                                                
One of the Island’s main sightseeing area is the Tortoise Sanctuary where a large colony of giant tortoises are contained. The animals were once gifted by the Seychelles islands in the 19th century. Averagely the creatures way around 200 kg and to become around 150 years old. These tortoises are known to only be found around Prison- and the Seychelles Island(s).  With this knowledge in mind the access rate to the sanctuary has become one of the Island’s main income generators.




[6/8] In line for slave shipping
The imaged square used to
be an area where slaves waited
before they were shipped to the
slave market or their
purchasers. Chained in shackles
they were forced on small boats
to make the cross over to Stone
Town or any other destination.
Many of the slaves did not survive
the journey.
The history and timespan of the
shown chairs is unknown. 



                                                                                               
[7/8] Off to another dock

Besides the prior described wooden dock to enter
the island, there is a rusty metal yet heavy door
that leads you to an almost hidden brick dock.
Its entrance is positioned next to the upper shown
waiting area for shipping. Behind the metal door
and a couple of steps down the beautiful blue 
ocean appears. The dock still has metal pins
attached to the concrete floors in order for
boats to attach and load slaves for shipping.
Currently this important historical area is part
of a short touristic scenery and is not primarily 
used as educational factor about the Island's past.

                                                                                                                                               


[8/8] Anchor back to Stone Town

In order to return to Stone Town
one must take a small boat
that are mostly run by local
fisher men and tourist guides.
With Zanzibar in sight it is
bittersweet to realize that one is
so easily to ship away as a free
human. There, where others
have been captivated,
transported in shackles
or died trying to escape
it not so long ago.